The ‘back streets’ of India

Up until now I have talked about the many wonders of this country. I do however want people to know the reality and truth of it too. I am guessing that many of you have seen the infamous Slumdog Millionaire, the movie that gripped the world and gave a bald-faced interpretation of the day-today lives of many millions of Indian people living in shanty towns and in very poor sanitation.

Some of the residents in India put up with their deprived housing and living situation.

'back street' of slum/shanty town

After all they’re not as lucky as us to have government funding and benefits to help them support their families. This causes many to beg on the streets or spend their day searching through junk and waste for valuable material such as metal, to sell in exchange for food or money. I personally think this is very unfair. To this day I am still extremely shocked and over-whelmed with sadness when I think about my very first encounters with the ‘back streets’ of India.

For any traveller who goes to India there is bound to be a high level of culture shock that will set in immediately after leaving the airport. My very first memory of India is seeing a row of houses (if that is even what they can be called), about a half a mile long. They looked more like a group of small shacks made out of tin, cardboard, large leaves and waste material put together posing as houses. I was disgusted and upset by this image that still stirs clear as daylight in my mind. I saw small children, barefooted traipsing around in dirt and rubbish. I saw old men and women taking shelter under a piece of cardboard from the heavy showers of the monsoon, and mothers bathing their children in the streets from rainwater. This gloomy life is visible on literally every back street of India.

But, despite the bleak conditions, these people have a real-sense of community, love and unity that flows through the narrow streets of the shanty towns and poorer parts of small villages. I saw this during my previous visit to India in July 2009, when I spent every other evening roaming the back streets of the village of Ankleshwar, Gujarat.  During this time the Hindu Festival Dussehra (also known as Vijayadashmi – ‘Vijay’ meaning ‘victory’ and ‘Dashmi meaning ‘tenth day) was being celebrated by hundreds of Hindu people in the streets of their minuscule homes.

Women do the Garba on a back street of Kaagdiwaar, Gujarat.

Every night for nine straight days herds of people would gather outside their homes and do the dance of Garba for Navratri as a means of worshiping Shakti, which is the Hindu concept of female divinity.  The dancing is in concentric circles around a central figure of worship, it starts off slow and then gradually speeds up as the tempo of the music increases. The back streets were filled with colour, dance and music that was either sung by the celebrator’s or blasted out through a donated stereo system especially for the Dussehra festival period.

I spoke to a few women who were celebrating this festival and found that some had no more than two-three pairs of clothes, had only eaten one meal that day, had no access to clean water and did not know what the following day had in store for them and their family. In spite of their hardships it was more important for them to participate fully and properly in this religious festival that held a deep meaning and signified the triumph of good over evil. I was greatly humbled by what I saw, and began to  understand that above all else religion and faith was crucial to the underprivileged communities, and it was their belief in something greater than wealth that encouraged them to continue living the way that they do.

I soon realised that the majority of the ‘back street’ vicinities in India are full of people who are still grateful for what they have even though it is very insufficient. This is because they have lived and know only this way of life, they have never experienced or been given the chance to see more. Sadly, for many, this is the path they expect to continue living on for the rest of their lives.

The best way to see India

Coming from an Indian background does have its advantages. I feel fortunate to have close family residing in India because it means that all I have to do is purchase a return ticket and enjoy the comforts of a home away from home when I travel there. But, although this works well for me, there are times I wish I could just swing on a backpack and take off around the country to do some real exploring – not to say that I couldn’t or haven’t had real experiences every time I have gone to India, just that it would be a nice challenge to do some independent exploration!

Backpacker's stroll across a beach

This is why I would highly recommend backpacking or going on a tailor-made tour around India. Firstly, it is very cheap to travel around, stay and eat there (in comparison to the UK and many other destinations). Secondly, taking a tour or backpacking allows you to be in control of where you want to go and how much time you want to spend in certain places. Time above all things is an important factor when it comes to experiencing small towns, big cities, mountains or deserts. Being able to control your own travels gives you a  better opportunity to see, live and absorb different cultures, customs and way of life. Finally, discovering India on your own terms means embarking on a unique adventure – so why not give it a go?!

Where do you begin? I would advise to anyone backpacking or taking a tour around India to make sure that you have, if not concrete, at least a well structured itinerary of the places you want to visit and how much time you want to stay there. You must also decide how you intend to get around and most importantly how much money to take with you. Like any other holiday, this trip must be well planned. Most people who backpack around India usually fly into a big city like New Delhi or Mumbai and take it from there. Accommodation for foreign travellers is ALWAYS available and inexpensive starting from as little as £12pppn ranging to £200pppn. Food is another impeccable quality of India, and wherever you reside you are likely to dine in one of a kind places, serving the most succulent dishes, again at very low prices (a three course meal in India will set you back around £3). With accommodation and food covered, the rest is up to you….there is a whole country to delve into at leisure.

Below is a trip that has become very popular with travellers all over the world. It incorporates some of the incredible areas that I would highly recommend for any independent and adventurous explorer.

• The Golden Triangle – comprises of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur – the three most visited cities in India. There is very good road and rail link between the three that roughly draws out the shape of a triangle. It is because of the variety of cultural and historical treasures on offer in these three places that they have been labelled ‘golden’ .
  

  The 'Golden Triangle' linked on a map

Delhi – The Capital of India. This city boasts a range of historical sites including the Red Fort (Lal Quila), Jama Masjid, Qutub Minar, the Lotus Temple, India Gate and many more.

Jaipur – The capital of the desert state Rajasthan. Here you can experience busy street life and pick up some distinctive gifts and souvenirs from some of India’s best bazaars. There are also many cultural heritage sites to visit like the Hawa Mahal, Jantar Mantar, Ram Niwas garden and others.

Agra – Once home to the great Mughal empire, this city now prides itself for having some of India’s most monumental forts and buildings. From the majestic Taj Mahal to the fort of Fatephur Sikri, Sikandra and the tomb of Itmad-Ud-Daulah, Agra is a palatial city with much on offer.

The ‘Golden Triangle’ covers a part of North India that is well worth visiting especially for first timers. For those who know exactly what they want there are plenty of other splendours to delve into!  Immerse yourself into a busy culture and bargain shopping in Mumbai (Bombay) and Kolkata (Calcutta). Indulge and relax in tropical bliss with a visit to Goa and Kerala. Take in the fresh air and serenity at the Himalayas. Jump into challenge and adventure in the Sahara desert, or take a trip to the holy city Varanasi and be humbled by the various Buddhist and Hindu temples. Like I said in one of the earlier posts – there is something in India for every kind of traveller, you just need to do your research and have a plan!!

The beautiful holy city Varanasi

Vote below for where you would like to go in India

Reign of the Cycle Rickshaw

For as long as I can remember, one of the most popular and truly traditional way of getting around and experiencing India is by Cycle Rickshaw.  A small cycle with a two-three seater attached behind it. It’s an overwhelming feeling when you’re sat on the back of this rickety vehicle, being coasted through the busy streets passing over sized bulls and cows and coming within inches of huge trucks and lorries. Sound like a scary ride? It is! However, it is also in my opinion the cheapest, easiest and fastest way of getting from one place to another especially in a country that is forever flooded with traffic and countless pedestrians!

Children pile on a cycle rickshaw to take them to school

I came across a recent article today on expressindia.com which is about the ongoing talks of whether cycle rickshaws should be banned from the streets of Delhi. The Delhi Hight Court has ruled that there could be no permanent ban of cycle rickshaws because of the many benefits they have. Despite this, the restriction or ban on use of cycle rickshaws on arterial roads in Delhi still remains.

Now let’s look at the advantages of this invaluable mode of transport. According to an article published on WIRED online cycle rickshaws carry over 100,000 people through Delhi everyday. They also carry goods including groceries and merchandise from suppliers to shops and as you can see from the picture above, many of these rickshaws act as a trustworthy and sturdy method of taking children to and from school. It is a non-motorised form of transport that not only carries people cheaply and quietly but cleanly too – in other words with zero pollution!  Cycle Rickshaws also provide links between areas that are difficult or impossible to reach via motorised vehicles like small villages, down narrow alley ways, across dirt roads and so on. Consequently we have here a people carrier that is inexpensive, quick, environmentally friendly, reliable and one that unquestionably provides a very unique experience. Let’s not forget that many of these cycle rickshaw pullers are average working Indian citizens trying to make a living. It is estimated that there are over 300,00 cycle rickshaws in the city of Delhi alone, banning them would ultimately take away the right to earn a livelihood from thousands of people. Based on all these facts I am definitely pro-cycle rickshaw!

Cycle rickshaws operate in and control many streets and shopping areas in India

Having travelled on one of these on numerous occasions I think it is safe to say that cycle rickshaws are only hazardous if you make them to be. So, if you’re on a cycle rickshaw then I’d advise you to sit back, get comfy and enjoy the ride. Do not stick your arm out of the side or pop your head out to see something that looks vaguely interesting, because that is how you’re relaxing ride can end up a careless catastrophe. Basically, you would never roll your car window down and stick your head out when you see an approaching lorry, and so the simple rules for a passenger on a cycle rickshaw is to never move sideways!!!

I understand why these rickshaws are banned or restricted on certain roads in the city. They do at times cause and block traffic, and can be very annoying for motorists driving cars, buses, trucks and other larger road vehicles. But, they are considered as an “ethnic mode of transportation” and work to serve thousands of people.  Yes, this carrier is somewhat shaky and delicate compared to other forms of transport but it is the most practical and efficient travel mechanism used by not only the people of India but by travellers too. I must say that you haven’t felt real road rage and adrenalin rush like that of the feeling you will get when riding on the back of a cycle rickshaw!

In my opinion the government and courts of India should be proud of the transport phenomenon that is the cycle rickshaw. In a country that is economically growing at such a fast pace, a vehicle that is beneficial for people and the environment should be welcomed and exploited for maximum gain, not banned. After all, there are cycle rickshaws on the streets of London, New York, Bangkok, Paris and other major cities all over the world, so India doesn’t have to worry about conveying a vibrant, contemporary atmosphere, instead it should enhance and encourage the business and use of the cycle rickshaw.

The question then is – would you take the chance and ride on a cycle rickshaw, or is that just too terrifying to even think about?!

INDIA, you haven’t lived until you’ve experienced it!

Flag of India - also known as 'tiranga' (tricolour)

Although I have been incredibly fortunate to have visited some beautiful places all over the world, this blog is all about a country which is most fascinating and unique – INDIA.

It’s always good to have done your research before travelling, and with that in mind my aim is to guide future travellers to India with first hand knowledge and experience from my own travels along with general facts and information about the country.

Taj Mahal - Agra

So why should anyone visit India?! Well, it is the only place in the world where you can drive as recklessly as you like and the law won’t punish you for it. The only place where you will share the footpath with a goat, or two, a place where you can drink till you’re full to the brim and not get in trouble for doing so! (I’m not doing a very good job of selling the place right now!) Let me try this again. India is a majestic country that caters to every travellers needs. From the white chilly mountains of the Himalayas to the tropical forests of Bengal, the gorgeous sandy beaches in Goa and the breathtaking sights of Agra there is something for everyone to do in this versatile nation. For a true experience of Indian life, one must absorb the culture and traditions of the Indian people and to do this I strongly recommend that you spend some time in the small villages of Gujarat, Rajasthan and other rural areas, because this is where you are likely to meet some of the most gentle people and make unforgettable memories.

Tiger - the national animal of India

This blog will take you through the contrasting qualities of a country that has it all…adventure, wildlife, heritage and culture. There are tips on how to get there, where to stay, delicacies you must try, and some useful information that anyone visiting this incredible place should know… a trip to India is guaranteed to leave every traveller mesmerised!